It’s sad to think that the Rogue Sessions are more than halfway over now. The Source’s Scott Drewno is the seventh chef in the series, which will be rounded out by Top Chef’s Jennifer Carroll and former minibar maestro Katsuya Fukushima (Nancy Oakes has cancelled her appearance). The bar has been set high by the first six participants, who wowed me with everything from coffee-dusted foie gras with coconut sauce to a grilled oyster with ash salsa to a reimagined Philly cheesesteak.
I’ve had the pleasure of dining at the Source several times, where I’ve always enjoyed Drewno’s talented take on traditional Chinese cuisine. Those meals have always been extravagant, multi-dish feasts that seem to consume the entire table though. So how would he tackle the tiny portion tasting menu format? Turns out that this challenge sent him back to the drawing board. He developed 10 new dishes for his Rogue Session, which is more than any other chef participating thus far.
It’s ballsy to try out so many new ideas at a place like Rogue 24. When portions are so compact and diners’ attention is so zoned in, failures are glaring. Not that I’m worried. Drewno seems to have a dexterous versatility, which means he can spearhead a pop-up at Toki Underground one day and be named a James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef the next. Let’s see what going for broke tastes like.
1st course
Bacon & eggs/char siu pork/quail egg
“This is my play on bacon and eggs,” says chef Drewno as he puts down a small rectangular plate with a curl of char siu barbecued pork belly and a stained glass dyed quail’s egg. The hidden yolk is deviled, which matches the sugary tones of the pig. I wholly endorse this breakfast-as-appetizer approach. Game on.
***2nd course
Octopus/guilin chili/coriander/pickles
Tonight I’m doing the non-alcoholic pairings; the first is a grape phosphate soda. A trio of pickled grapes knocks around at the bottom of the glass like stone marbles. With a crunchy pop these green orbs reveal an acidity that complements the tiny inch-long baby octopus floating in a vinegary Asian chili sauce alongside a few coriander-pickled cuke cubes. The meat is springy, but soft; a real treat.
Finish reading this plate-by-plate overview on CityEat’s Plate blog now.
When you dine out, you might think about the ingredients that go into your food, but you probably don’t think about all the numbers that make your meal happen. Restaurants are filled with interesting figures that might not be apparent when you bite into an enticing entrée or take a sip of a signature cocktail, but they’re all around you.
