Washington Post’s Good to Go: Batter Bowl Bakery

After finding success with Ethiopic restaurant in the Atlas District, husband-and-wife team Samuel Ergete, 42, and Meseret Bekele, 34, wanted to branch out. The obvious play would have been to open a second Ethiopian restaurant elsewhere in the area. But the couple saw a need for a European-inspired bakery in the neighborhood where they work and live. So around the beginning of the year they opened Batter Bowl Bakery, right next door to their restaurant.

There was one not-so-small catch: They weren’t familiar with the art of baking. So for more than a year, Bekele took lessons from her older brother, Eyassu Bekele, who had worked as a pastry chef in Europe. He visited from Ethiopia to tutor her and compose the recipes, which she now adeptly executes daily, beginning several hours before sunrise.

Finish reading this review on the Washington Post website now.

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Some Like It Hot – Newcomers to the Mexican cuisine scene deliver plenty of steam and taste

For years, it was difficult to find much in the way of seriously good Mexican food around here. Sure, there was José Andrés’ Oyamel for an upscale adventure and the family-run R&R Taquería in Elkridge, Md., for more casual fare, but that was it.

But for those who love south of the border cuisine, the last few months have seen that void ably filled.

One of the hottest newcomers is Arlington, Va.’s Fuego Cocina y Tequileria (2800 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington, Va.; 571/970-2180, fuegova.com), pictured left. The two-story corner restaurant features bold flavors and shareable presentations. Queso fundido arrives at the table bubbling in a skillet, the outer rim caramelized. Spoon its gooey strings into freshly made corn tortillas, making sure to get some of the bits of spicy crumbled chorizo into the mix.

Decadent duck flautas come in crackly flash-fried casings with a chocolaty mole negro dipping sauce on the side, while duos of tacos filled with tempting options such as roasted goat, beef brisket and crispy tilapia are served with two house-made salsas.

When it comes time for dessert, the velveteen coconut mousse cake (seen above) with a tart layer of lime curd and passion fruit caramel is a good bet. So is the tres leches cake with cream cheese frosting and sweet guava sauce.

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How the Wild Pea Does Hummus

Hummus prides itself in its uniformity. Whether you’re eating it in the Middle East or the Mid-Atlantic, the savory spread is always a simple mash of chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, garlic, and lemon juice.

Until now.

Baltimore’s hummus phenom, the Wild Pea, refuses to conform to the norm. The company sells multiple varieties of the popular spread—and not one of them tastes like traditional hummus, even though they all contain its core ingredients.

There’s sriracha-spiked Asian Fire, black truffle, a slightly spicy curry, Old Bay, salt and vinegar, hyper garlicky Vampire Slayer, and cinnamon raisin.

No, that last one isn’t a typo.

Even more unorthodox concoctions come out as limited editions, which are usually only available at the Wild Pea’s stand at various Charm City farmers markets or through its website. We’re talking mind-bendingly off-the-wall flavors like maple bacon, buttered popcorn, muffaletta, and blueberry pesto.

There’s even sushi.

“It has hints of wasabi and ginger, but no fish,” explains company founder Blake Wollman, who looks more like an alt-rock-loving health guru than a chef. Wearing a forest-toned T-shirt, shorts, and neon yellow sneakers, he sports a shaved head, earrings, a pinpoint nose piercing, and tattoos that run up and down his forearms.

“If you can think of a flavor combination, I’ve probably done it,” he says. “I can always come up with a new one.”

Finish reading this story on the Maryland Life website now.

Photo courtesy of Maryland Life.

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Washington Post’s Good to Go: Mesob on Wheels

“Do you have utensils?” the customer in line in front of me asks.

The woman at the window of the food truck smiles and shakes her head apologetically.

“No, you eat with your hands.”

So it goes when you lunch at Montgomery County’s Ethiopian food truck Mesob on Wheels, which takes its name from the hand-woven straw tables traditionally dined on throughout the East African country. Silver Spring residents Nebeyou Lemma, 37, and his fiancee, Pina Ghetahun, 36, both native Ethiopians, opened for business Sept. 11, the first day of the Ethiopian new year. You can’t miss their truck, which is covered with giant, artfully composed pictures of their food, with helpful captions to aid the uninitiated.

Lemma, who attended Lincoln Culinary Institute in Columbia to hone his culinary chops, does most of the cooking. Ghetahun, who tends bar part-time at La Tasca in Chinatown, takes the orders and helps prep the food off-site. The menu usually contains about 10 options, including a strong selection of vegetarian choices. Everything is made from scratch with the exception of the injera bread, which they buy from the District’s Enat Ethiopia Grocery and Bakery.

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Washington Post’s Good to Go: Energy Kitchen

Take a cursory look at Energy Kitchen’s menu and you’d think that you’d walked into a typical fast-food joint. Burgers, fries and shakes dominate the offerings at this downtown eatery, which opened around the first of the year. Further examination reveals that this New York City import isn’t looking to compete with Shake Shack. Everything contains fewer than 500 calories, and nothing is fried; baking, steaming and grilling are the cooking methods here.

Launched in 2003 by Anthony Leone and Randy Schechter, the boutique chain now boasts locations in and around Manhattan, as well as in New Jersey and Florida. In 2008, Energy Kitchen’s profile got a booster shot when Glaceau vitamin water company co-founder Mike Repole signed on as chairman.

Repole sees the menu as a matter of pragmatism. “Burgers, fries and shakes aren’t going anywhere; they’re going to be around for the next 200 years,” he says. “This way people can feel like they’re indulging, but they’re really not.”

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Late Nights and Bar Bites – Expanded hours and menu specials boost bar tabs

It’s midnight on a Friday in Washington, D.C., and luckily, Bar Pilar is open. Located on the white hot 14th Street corridor, the two-story local favorite has earned a reputation as one of the best places in the city to grab a late-night bite.

Since last summer, patrons have been able to order from the full menu from 11 a.m. until 1 a.m. at both the downstairs and upstairs bars, as well as the dining room. (Before this move, guests could only order from a limited menu.) These expanded and constantly rotating offerings include everything from shareable small plates, such as roasted potatoes with malt aioli and beef empanadas, to entrées such as lard-fried buttermilk chicken. There’s a dual purpose behind the move: One, increase Bar Pilar’s overall dining receipts. Two, increase each check during an under-monetized daypart by enticing tipplers to become diners.

All across the country, full-service bars and restaurants are rolling out dining options for the midnight crowd. According to Technomic’s 2012 “Dinner and Late-Night Consumer Trend Report,” operators are developing “craveable” food options that might include smaller portions, shareable dishes, or mix ‘n’ match selections. All these tactics appeal to the Millennial customer base that congregates over food and drinks.

New York City’s A.G. Kitchen has fired up a late night “Five & Dime” menu that entices late-night, weekend traffic passing through the neighborhood, including concert-goers from nearby Beacon Theatre or the summertime show series in Central Park.

A selection of American and Latin comfort foods from executive chef Alex Garcia are priced either $5 or $10. Crab cake sliders, a Cubano sandwich, guacamole, and guava barbecue ribs are smaller portions or discounted versions of existing menu items. “It’s our greatest hits,” explains partner Spencer Rothschild. “It’s not the time of day to sit down and have a full meal, but you want something that’s tasty and flavorful.”

Finish reading this story on the FSR website now.

Photo courtesy of A.G. Kitchen.

 

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Washington Post’s Good to Go: Taylor Charles Steak & Ice

A cheesesteak seems like an uncomplicated sandwich: a roll filled with griddled beef and cheese. Wit grilled onions or wit-out. But that simplicity makes the Philly favorite difficult to perfect. There’s little room for error.

The stakes are even higher when you’ve already found success as the hoagie kings of the District.

Taylor Gourmet owners and Philadelphia natives Casey Patten, 32, and David Mazza, 35, knew they had to get it absolutely right when they opened Taylor Charles Steak & Ice in the Atlas District in mid-December.

“There’s a fear factor when you take on something iconic and regional,” says Patten. “Everyone has an opinion on it.”

As reported in these pages, the duo took multiple trips back to their hometown to research, tried dozens of provolone cheeses and had long discussions about the perfect roll, which they ultimately sourced from Gold Crust Baking in Landover. They even developed their own house-made whiz, a sauce that tastes a little like aged white cheddar mixed with provolone and has the consistency of runny nacho cheese.

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Washington Post’s Good To Go: Tokyo in the City

In the past two years, local food trucks have rolled a long way in terms of diversity and quality: sandwiches designed by a James Beard winner at Jose Andres’s Pepe, slices straight from a wood-fired oven at Frankly Pizza and Hawaiian favorites from Hula Girl. Starting in late October, Tokyo in the City — a venture founded by high school friends turned business partners Yong Yi and Min Song, both 29 — began rolling sushi to order for the Washington lunchtime crowd.

The Manassas entrepreneurs’ sleek mobile canteen stands out against the urban backdrop. Graphics of pink cherry blossoms and ruby red lanterns cover the truck, a mix of Top 40 hits and K-pop pours out of speakers by the order window, and the dapper employee who takes orders sports a preppy striped tie.

“I wondered whether people would want to eat sushi from a truck,” says Yi, who also owns the Asian-accented, D.C.-centric hoagie truck Wassub. “So I wanted our look to be clean and modern.”

Finish reading this review on the Washington Post site now.

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