As I walked into the New Orleans Po Boy Shop in Dupont Circle soon after it opened in mid- August, one thing was immediately obvious: The owners take their love of the Crescent City seriously. A fleur-de-lis hangs on one exposed brick wall. There’s a serve-yourself pump dispenser of Cafe du Mondechicory coffee on the sideboard, and bags of Zapp’s potato chips line the counter.

Co-owner and co-chef, 32-year-old Justin Snyder of Fredericksburg, Va., was teaching an employee how to pronounce remoulade: “It’s REM-ah-lahd, not rem-YOU-lahd.”

Meanwhile, his business partner, Cam McNair, 50, of Glen Echo — a veteran of Commander’s Palace and Mr. B’s Bistro in New Orleans — prepped the griddles for the lunch rush.

Together, they have constructed a menu of more than a dozen po’ boys, including longtime favorites and unexpected offerings, such as roast turkey with brie ($8.50) and a Cubano ($9). All are made with rolls from Gambino’s Bakery in New Orleans, which are shipped par-baked, then finished off in the restaurant’s ovens.

Finish reading this review on the Washington Post‘s website now.

Photo by Leo Reynolds on Flickr.