When you walk into H &pizza on the main drag of the Atlas District, there’s a sense of deja vu. There are echoes of the classic pizzeria aesthetic, along with unique signature stylings. The exposed brick is painted white with black accents; a floor-to-ceiling tomato-red ampersand makes a statement on the left wall. There are picnic tables and benches. Historical black-and-white photographs of H Street hang along the right side.

You can watch your pie take shape; you’ll notice that it’s rectangular instead of round. The pizza is big enough to feed one hungry diner, though a trio could get away with ordering two. Co-owners Steve Salis, 28, and Michael Lastoria, 32, spent two years designing and testing; they are first-time restaurateurs who moved from New York to open H &pizza in mid-July.

Begin by choosing one of three crusts: a traditional white-flour crust that’s more Neapolitan than New York, a winning multigrain or a surprisingly top-notch whole-wheat. All three are resilient when loaded up, and survive a takeout box. If you craft a custom job ($6.82 to $8.64), you’ll next decide on one of several sauces. The best I tried was the spicy tomato, which started out smooth and ended with a swift kick. (The aromatic mushroom truffle was a close second.) However, the regular tomato sauce was under­seasoned and crying out for a salt shaker. Your composition is baked via conveyor belt, and the whole process takes about five minutes.

Finish reading this story on the Washington Post website now.